an update bigger than Paraguay

So. I'm at the point in my stay where the notorious AFS "mood graph" dips dangerously low. Luckily for me, I got over the whole "dangerously low" stage within the first two months of my stay and have been able to move on, though homesickness does sometimes still prevail. We're working on that.

There always seems to be so much to catch up on! Since I last blogged (so bizarre to use that as a verb) much has happened: the Biointensive course wrapped up (but not before an incredible viaje to VILLARRICA (always spelled in all caps) to teach Biointensive methods at a granja owned by a religious girls home there. VILLARRICA is without a doubt the most gorgeous part of Paraguay; filled with beautiful hills and valleys, lakes, trees and nurseries galore (it's known as the "land of nurseries")! I imagine it's what the Shire would look like if it were in a tropical location.) and Jen and everyone headed off to their respective countries; leaving me with the "responsibility" of our huerto. There IS a prof. here, named Sotelo, who's job description is to be head of both our research and big production gardens. Being Paraguayan, organization and execution don't come very naturally to him; though he's energetic, eager and excitable - which makes him fun to work with when he's around. But, because of his lack of actual facetime in our garden I am the one trying to keep things going. It's a challenge, but one I'm looking forward to accomplishing. I am learning/reading/doing a ton (I spent the other day in the garden from 6am-6pm - and that was only slightly longer than average). I'll be a regular ol' farm girl by the end of this.

I've already started to think like a farmer - weather is no longer just "weather": too much sun dries things out, and when it pours things drowned. Temperatures are a big deal and time of day is everything.

An average day for me consists of:
5.30 - Pull on some dirt-y (working in a garden I've come to appreciate the difference between "dirty" and "dirt-y") jeans and mosey on out into the garden to look about, listen to the birds, weed/check on everything.
7.00 - Bell for breakfast of white bread rolls, dulce de leche (made at the school) and mate cocido con leche (I usually just down 2 or 3 mugs of cocido. It's delish. But then I feel ill because of all the sugar and no substance. Every morning - you'd think I'd learn.)
7.45 - Back out to the garden to prep beds, weed, and generally cuidarse las plantitas, maybe watch a toucan or two fly overhead.
9.00 - Bell for media-mañana snack (usually their homemade yogurt - WOW - or a hard boiled egg or something) and then back out to the field.
11.00 - End of morning shift and half hour to almuerzo - usually I write letters or sing songs, etc.
12-13.00 - Siesta (much needed)
13.00 - Garden time (watering, more weeding, harvesting and the occasional devouring of papaya)
16.00 - Merienda of cold cocido or yogurt, plus, if need be, yet again out to the garden for transplanting and seed sowing.
Needless to say I am usually in bed before 8pm which is when the bell rings for their dinner.

My current favorite crop we have in our little, 52 bed garden is la batata (sweet potato - and I'm not talking yams - these are white, creamy, delicious, sweet potatoes). Not only is it one of my favorite foods here (Fide, my host mama, and I made gnocci de batata the other Sunday for lunch - boy was that tasty!), but the plant itself is pleasing to look at and is rather wondrous. It pokes up out of the ground with stunning fall-like features (everything looks/feels/is summer here), delicate three-pointed, dark green leaves with purple/maroon edges. I also love the excitement of digging them up - like finding gold - especially in beds where they were previously planted and are still hiding out to surprise you with their bulky reddish brown secrets.

Other than all the time I spend in the garden (I've been living at the school lunes a viernes instead of my two hour commute everyday) things are mostly low-key. I've spent some weekends in Asunción going out on the town with the other AFSers (in borrowed clothes because Zan only owns work gear) and spending lazy afternoons at home con mi familia sipping tereré and listening to Fide tell gruesome tales. Though she is the sweetest darling in the world she has a fantastically morbid streak which makes her that much more endearing. =] I also love watching her cook - she's an excellent chef.

I'm getting ready to say "Ciao" to them next week. They're headed off to the states to visit Fide's daughter (who lives in LA) for 3 months. Another first-life-experience for me that is happening in Paraguay: living on my own. Yet another challenge that I am looking forward to growing from. I'm going to be ever such a big girl when I return.

Hmm.. What more can I say? I could honestly not ask for a better, more opportunity-giving experience than what I have here. I am learning a wealth of information about sustainable agriculture from doing/reading/watching; I have a lovely familia whom I expect to continue being in the honeymoon-stage with since they're leaving and when they return it'll start all over again - so no worries there; not to mention I am becoming more fluent by the day in español (I think in Spanglish) - though the guarani is slowing me down somewhat.

I am still loving all the letters I am receiving (mail is my biggest expense!) and please if you haven't already (and even if you have) write! I will hopefully post pictures of the Biointensive course soon.

Abrazos a todos, y cuidate, Zan