Dia del Accion de Gracias

After all night (7+ hours) in el colectivo I finally arrived home after our three day viaje to Ciudad Del Este. It was above and beyond what I ever expected it to be:

Our first day we hopped off the bus and practically right into el Super to buy all our Thanksgiving ingredients. Our dinner (complete with 4 chickens (pavo - AKA turkey - is not a hot commodity around here), sweet potatoes, mashed potatoes, "cooked carrots" (yes, that is what they are called), green salads, and bread rolls - not to mention postre of three homemade-from-scratch pumpkin pies (!!) and a pear cobbler with vanilla ice cream) came to a whopping 23,000 Guaranis each (~ $5.75!). If that isn't incredible enough, you should have tasted that feast!

The pre-dinner rituals were absolutely perfect: before we ate we all gathered around the table (in la casa de la familia de una Americana, Linny): 10 yankees and 5 Balbuenas (Linny's loving and amazing familia). Elizabeth, una otra Americana, gave a toast. After, we held hands and Andrea, Linny's hermanita, said a prayer; then we sang a rowdy rendition of "Johnny Appleseed" which was followed by silence and a passing of the squeeze. And, of course, Thanksgiving Dinner would not be complete without going around the table and sharing something we were thankful for. Needless to say, that was a bit of a tear-jerker. It was one of the most special Thanksgivings I have ever had the pleasure to be a part of, and it was so wonderful to be able to share it with the Balbuenas, who opened their home and kitchen to us so unhesitatingly.

The second day was spent gallivanting around el centro popping into shops and I possibly have acquired intestinal worms from ensalada de fruta de la calle - but that's just me being paranoid (knock on wood!). I bought some super flashy Christmas lights in the shapes of tiny oranges which thrilled me! We also took a stroll through "Country" - the gated community hidden among the tent-towns of CDE. It is all exclusive, all inclusive (they have everything down to their own Universidad and a GAP outlet!). It was very bizarre to walk around in the dark, safe, and completely paved streets and sidewalks lined with grass. It was utterly Stepford. It was too American. It made me realize what a culture shock it will be to return home again when this year is up. It never occurred to me before, but it is going to be a very strange sensation.

The third and final day was begun in an attempt to see the Foz de Iguazu. We made it far enough to land on Brazilian soil, but were forced back for our lack of paperwork. It was rather exciting/slightly disappointing. So to make up for that, we had another feast: this time to celebrate the cumpleaños of a German AFSer, Teresa. We followed up our thoroughly American meal with a thoroughly Paraguayan one. We made asado (Paraguayan BBQ). It was a hit - and we even made some more pumpkin pies!

It was a really fantastic bonding experience for all of us; getting to know Linny's familia, and spending time with each other. Us Americanos are a special crowd... I used to be concerned our spending so much time together was a result of ethnocentrism, but I've come to realize, and appreciate deeply, that we're just a very close-knit group and have been since our orientation in Miami almost four months ago. Only four months, and I feel as if we have all been part of each others' lives since the beginning. Que suerte.

I was afraid to come home, and go back to the fields, working alone and my "non-AFS AFS experience", having had a taste of what AFS is "supposed" to be... but having just spent the afternoon lazily watering la crotolaria y maiz so tall and glorious I got lost in it, standing on the path letting it wave around me like a crowd of people giving me hugs, and spending some time in a mango tree pretending to be Mr. Spingle Spangle, Esq. with his goolibas, I am happy. I am such a lucky person to be having this experience. I am truly thankful.

Mi nombre es Zan, como "ZANahoria"

My favorite things to plant are, ironically enough, zanahorias. Not only are they so much fun to sprinkle down their little rows like glitter, but... have you ever smelled a carrot flower? It is the most amazing scent... tangy and mmmm. The seeds smell the same way (if not better) and it is an absolute blast for the nose. =] I am now going to try and learn how to extract the scent for a perfume... I can call it "Zan~ahoria"... or something like that. [Does anybody know about perfume making? If you do please share your knowledge!]

The heat here has become officially unbearable; we hit the 40sºC ( ~ 100sºF ) daily. I can hardly breath and stand still, let alone double dig and weed. I have never sweat so much in my life... it is pretty remarkable (this is where the perfume would come in handy). Watering is my favorite chore - especially when there are wet t-shirt contests involved. =]

I have kissed mi familia on both cheeks and sent them flying for Los Angeles; how odd to think of my Paraguayan family in my country without me. I am, however, enjoying the freedom to wander about at will and not feeling guilty about not being home enough. PLUS, once they return (in Febrero), Mom, Dad, and Bobbie have bought tickets to come for a quick visit in March! I am terribly excited to show everything to them... my need to share what I am experiencing here first hand is very strong. It will be nice to have people to know what I'm talking about when I return home with all my stories! Fide is excited for their visit too, and we've planned all sorts of delicious pastimes.

I am headed to Ciudad Del Este with los americanos on Monday for a belated Dia De Gracias celebration. I am very excited to see the Iguazu Falls and the Hydro-electric Dam. It should be a fun viaje.

This morning in the cool, breezy, pre-sun light, I prepared a bed for transplanting which I will execute this afternoon with melon, girasoles (sunflowers... the literal translation of "girasol" is Sun Wheeler, which I find absolutely superb) and some lettuces. Other than that the heat has us in an off-season (same as up North, only for the opposite reason...) and we've mostly got compost and carbon crops in - a key part of biointensive growing.

Before I return to the sweltering fields, I would like to quickly mention one thing: on this day of Thanks (and on all those other days in the year as well) I am ever so thankful to have each one of you in my life. I am an incredibly lucky person to know you all. I have received some incredibly touching, insightful and thoughtful emails/letters recently. I cannot express how helpful all your kind words have been during my time here. Thank you.

I miss you all,
zanahoria

an update bigger than Paraguay

So. I'm at the point in my stay where the notorious AFS "mood graph" dips dangerously low. Luckily for me, I got over the whole "dangerously low" stage within the first two months of my stay and have been able to move on, though homesickness does sometimes still prevail. We're working on that.

There always seems to be so much to catch up on! Since I last blogged (so bizarre to use that as a verb) much has happened: the Biointensive course wrapped up (but not before an incredible viaje to VILLARRICA (always spelled in all caps) to teach Biointensive methods at a granja owned by a religious girls home there. VILLARRICA is without a doubt the most gorgeous part of Paraguay; filled with beautiful hills and valleys, lakes, trees and nurseries galore (it's known as the "land of nurseries")! I imagine it's what the Shire would look like if it were in a tropical location.) and Jen and everyone headed off to their respective countries; leaving me with the "responsibility" of our huerto. There IS a prof. here, named Sotelo, who's job description is to be head of both our research and big production gardens. Being Paraguayan, organization and execution don't come very naturally to him; though he's energetic, eager and excitable - which makes him fun to work with when he's around. But, because of his lack of actual facetime in our garden I am the one trying to keep things going. It's a challenge, but one I'm looking forward to accomplishing. I am learning/reading/doing a ton (I spent the other day in the garden from 6am-6pm - and that was only slightly longer than average). I'll be a regular ol' farm girl by the end of this.

I've already started to think like a farmer - weather is no longer just "weather": too much sun dries things out, and when it pours things drowned. Temperatures are a big deal and time of day is everything.

An average day for me consists of:
5.30 - Pull on some dirt-y (working in a garden I've come to appreciate the difference between "dirty" and "dirt-y") jeans and mosey on out into the garden to look about, listen to the birds, weed/check on everything.
7.00 - Bell for breakfast of white bread rolls, dulce de leche (made at the school) and mate cocido con leche (I usually just down 2 or 3 mugs of cocido. It's delish. But then I feel ill because of all the sugar and no substance. Every morning - you'd think I'd learn.)
7.45 - Back out to the garden to prep beds, weed, and generally cuidarse las plantitas, maybe watch a toucan or two fly overhead.
9.00 - Bell for media-mañana snack (usually their homemade yogurt - WOW - or a hard boiled egg or something) and then back out to the field.
11.00 - End of morning shift and half hour to almuerzo - usually I write letters or sing songs, etc.
12-13.00 - Siesta (much needed)
13.00 - Garden time (watering, more weeding, harvesting and the occasional devouring of papaya)
16.00 - Merienda of cold cocido or yogurt, plus, if need be, yet again out to the garden for transplanting and seed sowing.
Needless to say I am usually in bed before 8pm which is when the bell rings for their dinner.

My current favorite crop we have in our little, 52 bed garden is la batata (sweet potato - and I'm not talking yams - these are white, creamy, delicious, sweet potatoes). Not only is it one of my favorite foods here (Fide, my host mama, and I made gnocci de batata the other Sunday for lunch - boy was that tasty!), but the plant itself is pleasing to look at and is rather wondrous. It pokes up out of the ground with stunning fall-like features (everything looks/feels/is summer here), delicate three-pointed, dark green leaves with purple/maroon edges. I also love the excitement of digging them up - like finding gold - especially in beds where they were previously planted and are still hiding out to surprise you with their bulky reddish brown secrets.

Other than all the time I spend in the garden (I've been living at the school lunes a viernes instead of my two hour commute everyday) things are mostly low-key. I've spent some weekends in Asunción going out on the town with the other AFSers (in borrowed clothes because Zan only owns work gear) and spending lazy afternoons at home con mi familia sipping tereré and listening to Fide tell gruesome tales. Though she is the sweetest darling in the world she has a fantastically morbid streak which makes her that much more endearing. =] I also love watching her cook - she's an excellent chef.

I'm getting ready to say "Ciao" to them next week. They're headed off to the states to visit Fide's daughter (who lives in LA) for 3 months. Another first-life-experience for me that is happening in Paraguay: living on my own. Yet another challenge that I am looking forward to growing from. I'm going to be ever such a big girl when I return.

Hmm.. What more can I say? I could honestly not ask for a better, more opportunity-giving experience than what I have here. I am learning a wealth of information about sustainable agriculture from doing/reading/watching; I have a lovely familia whom I expect to continue being in the honeymoon-stage with since they're leaving and when they return it'll start all over again - so no worries there; not to mention I am becoming more fluent by the day in español (I think in Spanglish) - though the guarani is slowing me down somewhat.

I am still loving all the letters I am receiving (mail is my biggest expense!) and please if you haven't already (and even if you have) write! I will hopefully post pictures of the Biointensive course soon.

Abrazos a todos, y cuidate, Zan